Domaine du Vieux Telegraphe 2023 La Crau Chateauneuf du Pape

A benchmark expression from one of Châteauneuf-du-Pape’s most revered estates, the 2023 La Crau is powerful yet refined, marrying intense red and dark fruit with savory garrigue, floral nuance, and structured tannins. Poised for the cellar but engaging in its youth, this release exemplifies classic Rhône complexity with enduring age-worthiness.

Origins & Craftsmanship
Produced by Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe, a six-generation estate anchored on the famed La Crau plateau in the Southern Rhône, this 2023 vintage reflects both historic terroir and meticulous vineyard work. Soils of galets (rounded stones), clay, and limestone store heat and lend depth, while cooling winds preserve freshness and aromatic lift.

The blend is led by Grenache with Mourvèdre and Syrah, fermented with careful extraction to build structure and depth. The wine is matured in large oak foudres, allowing textural integration without overt oak dominance. The Brunier family’s low-intervention approach focuses on purity of fruit and terroir expression, resulting in a wine that balances richness with precision.

Critics Reviews
James Suckling awards the 2023 La Crau 98 points, celebrating its “extraordinary depth, ripe red and dark berry layers, and dramatic floral and garrigue complexity,” and noting its “refined structure and incredible length.” 

Jeb Dunnuck scores it 95 points, describing it as “a classically styled Châteauneuf with beautiful cherry and framboise fruit, mineral nuance, and elegant mouthfeel,” with tannins that promise extended evolution. 

Wine Spectator gives it 94 points, highlighting a structured profile supported by muscular tannins, crunchy red fruit and plum, and an enticing perfume of smoke and flowers, predicting it will reward patience in the cellar. 

Vinous also scores the wine 94 points, noting expressive violet and wild strawberry aromatics, polished structure, and a complex finish that positions it among the standout 2023 Châteauneuf-du-Papes. 

Together these published scores underscore the wine’s balance of power, finesse, and lasting potential.

Tasting Profile

Nose:
A vivid and layered bouquet of wild strawberry, black cherry, violet petal, and rose, interwoven with garrigue herbs, licorice root, and subtle graphite.

Palate:
Medium-to-full-bodied with concentrated red and dark fruit set against saline mineral drive and fine-grained tannins. Complex layers of spice, earth, and savory herbs build toward a structured, expressive core.

Finish:
Long, persistent, and harmonious, with lingering fruit and spice framed by graceful tannins and a refined mineral echo.

Quick Overview